Today I learned that homograph is a word spelled the same as another, with different meaning and pronunciation. I Google'd it after dining at Combine Cafe & Bar, in Surrey opposite King George Station, on the boulevard's west side.
I wondered, is the restaurant name pronounced COM-bine (like the agricultural machine), or is it the verb com-BINE (to unite or merge)? Could be either, could be both.
Whatever the pronunciation, Combine opened last spring as a place for fresh ingredients grown on local farms, including those of Century Group owners in Southlands Tsawwassen. The company developed the Locale at Century City tower (of rental homes), where Combine is located in a high-ceiling, ground-floor space.
"We try to change our menu every quarter, adding fresh ingredients and new things," explained head chef Ocean Yoo, who grew up in South Korea, trained in New York and now works in Surrey.
Combine's Dawn and Dusk menus offer different drinks and food, highlighted by build-your-own charcuterie boards. Pick three among meat and cheese options, and another three condiments to pair.
On Lunar New Year we went with all-B.C. ingredients of apple whiskey salami, Chilean chorizo and aged cheddar, with condiment sides of Southlands honey, chili jam and apple chips, with a flight of four wines.
"The idea is to let people try different things and combine them the way they want, different flavours," Yoo insisted. "Other places have pre-sliced packages that they put out, but we slice everything from whole pieces. That's why it's a little more moist, more melting-in-your-mouth. The slicer we have has a (high) price tag on it, so it's very good, shaves it so thin."
For his board, Yoo said he'd pick Italian prosciutto, B.C. cured salmon and British blue stilton cheese, with honey, chili jam and dates.
For the table, we ordered focaccia (baked in-house), goat cheese-stuffed dates (with more of the honey), bannock (with braised wild boar, black garlic cream, pineapple gastrique, smoked mayonnaise, peppers and radish), and desserts of tiramisu and Oops! ice-cream (with waffle cone, berry compote, poached pear, cookie crumble).
It's all served lightning-quick from a small, central kitchen and bar area with no HVAC.
"We do have a back kitchen for prepping," Yoo explained. "Sometimes it's kind of difficult to come up with a recipe that doesn't require sautéing, grilling or deep-frying, but this is how we work."
For Valentine's Day, Yoo has cooked up a three-course set menu, posted on the restaurant's Instagram.
Open seven days a week (not including holidays), until midnight Friday and Saturday, Combine is at 9873 King George Blvd., Surrey.
